Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis

On Wednesday 30th March 2005 we headed off to Fort William in the Scottish Highlands to do something a little different as our intention to paddle some of the Scottish white water rivers was not possible due to the extremely low river levels (already at their summer levels). Our new plan was to climb Britain's highest mountain, Ben Nevis at 1343 metres or 4406 feet above see level!

Cara Ascending Ben Nevis
Cara Ascending Ben Nevis
Cara with the Red Burn falls in the background.

Our first stop was the Nevis visitor centre where we parked our car and readied our equipment. We were told that the conditions at the summit were squally snow showers, windy and very cold. Fortunately we had come prepared, thanks to our previous days visit to the Fort William outdoor shop outlets! So, at 10:30 am, we commenced our climb, first crossing the Nevis River (by footbridge) and joining the mountain path.

After a short while the climb started. Unlike Snowdon's Llanberis Path, the path leading to the Ben Nevis summit was much more difficult. Loose rock and small boulders was the theme and Cara commented that we were fortunate that it wasn't raining, as the surface would have been even slipperier.

Cara, Gid and Clare
Cara, Gid and Clare
Cara, Clare and Gideon taking a break!

As the climb progressed we found ourselves getting closer and closer to cloud base and it was evident that at some point we would ascend into cloud. Sure enough, the clouds thickened and the view of the surrounding landscape was replaced with an eerie thick fog. We were quite surprised by how fast this happened and how little we could see. It was now time to put on additional clothing as the damp air and altitude was beginning to cool everything down.

Entering the Clouds!
Entering the Clouds!
Cloud Base

Further up the mountain, still in cloud, we came across our first ice/snow patch. The path was now becoming a little harder to see as was proved by Clare when she continued off around the mountain, missing a subtle zigzag in the path. Fortunately she was beckoned back and we were back on route again.

As we ascended further, others that had been to the summit and were heading downward passed us. Oddly enough they showed signs of extreme weather exhibiting frozen hair and wind chilled faces! We were soon to discover this for ourselves as we continued upward around the next zigzag!

The temperature was now well below freezing. The rocks were covered with the most fascinating ice formations I had ever seen and the cloud cover and wind was on the increase. We pressed on until everything went white. Here it was not possible to determine where the sky stopped and the land started. This was simply an amazing place to be, if not a little cold!

We treaded carefully now because of warnings about snow cornices and the vertical descents that they masked. We could just make out through the thick cloud the edge of one such cornice and kept well clear. As we continued we could make out the silhouette of buildings and other walkers and we were no longer climbing. This was it; this was the Ben Nevis summit!

Dan at Summit
Dan at Summit
Dan at the Ben Nevis Summit!

On the summit of Ben Nevis we found the ruins of an old hotel and weather station. We used these to shelter from the bitter cold wind and to eat cake and drink a warm cup of fruit tea! This was a fantastic place, but not a place to stay for too long. After posing for photographs we gathered our things then started our descent.

Cara at Summit
Cara at Summit
Cara at the summit of Ben Nevis

It didn't take long before we were lost, everything was white and we couldn't find the path that had led us to the summit. With some careful back tracking we discovered our error (we'd descended too soon) and found the path. Once on the path we found an odd character sat down having a smoke waiting for the rest of his group that he had great pleasure informing us that he'd left some time earlier! Probably not the most sensible choice!

Within minutes of descending there was a dramatic change in the environment. The wind, snow and ice had gone, and the temperature was noticeably warmer. Cara was much happier descending and took great pleasure informing those that were still climbing that they were 'almost' there! One gentlemen commented that it was funny that people were much chirpier on their way down! Cara was clear evidence of this!

As we descended a gust of wind blew a hole in the cloud and we were amazed to see not only a fantastic view, but also how many more people were on the mountain with us. All must have been equally stunned as everyone briefly stopped in their tracks to admire the short-lived view that was once again, swallowed by the clouds!

Cara Descending
Cara Descending
Cara and other climbers stopping to admire the view that opened up in the clouds.

We continued downward soon departing the cover of cloud. The descent was more awkward than imagined, every step had to be carefully planted otherwise a fall was likely! As a result we spent most of the time looking at our feet than at the view that was revealing itself once again.

Several hours later, the harsh terrain yielded to a riverside path that led us back to a footbridge and in turn, back to the car. The time was now 17:45, a total round trip of around 7 hours, 10 miles and an ascent to 1344 metres! That was it; we were done in!